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 The
Sierra Nevada mountain range lies in the southernmost Spanish region of
Andalucia, to the south of Granada. The three main peaks are Alcazaba
at 3366 metres, Velata at 3398 and El Mulhacen which, at 3,482 metres
{11,432 feet} is mainland Spain's highest point.
In September of 2002, when I was 73 years of age, I set out to reach
the summit of El Mulhacen.
The highest mountain in Britain is Ben Nevis, at 4406 feet, which I have
never even seen close up, let alone climb up. Here I was contemplating
a summit of something over two miles high! However, it is not as daunting
a task as the bare numbers might suggest because I could only consider
an attempt if it could be done on horseback, or by mule.
From Granada one sees the north face of Sierra Nevada and it is quite
spectacular, being snow covered in winter and with a mantle of white on
the peaks throughout most of the year.
My plan was to approach from the southern side, known as La Alpujarra,
also spectacularly beautiful for the 80 or so villages that are strung
across the southern slopes of Sierra Nevada and the pleasant, cultivated
landscape that is bathed almost continuously in sunshine.
From the summits the terrain falls away in hills, valleys, gorges and
terraced land that is watered by innumerable rivulets surging forth from
underground lakes formed from the snows and rainfalls of the Sierra. Many
ccnturies ago this land was irrigated by the Moorish peoples who were
settled here, and so splendid was their technique that it has survived
to the present day.
I had been in La Alpujarra on an earlier holiday and made some enquiries
about the possibility of making the ascent on horseback while gathering
some local telephone numbers that I felt would be useful.
Back home I had to set about planning my small expedition and so I got
myself along to Barrhead Library. Using their wonderful computer section
I was able to scour the Internet for all manner of information. I manage
fairly well when speaking and reading Spanish so was able to look for
appropriate maps of Sierra Nevada on the Internet. These arrived in Barrhead
three days after I placed my order via the web page of the company in
Barcelona.
I bought a decent compass and a reliable whistle that produces a shrill
blast. That was my technical gear! I already had some stout boots.
When I phoned Juan Antonio, the owner of
the delightful Hotel La Fragua in Trevelez with whom I had spoken about
my idea, he said that in Trevelez there was someone who had been a shepherd
high in the Sierra and now rented horses. He would speak with him and
I was to call back a few days later.
Upon making that call he told me the owner of the horses, José
Antonio, had said the trip could be done but that we had to meet and discuss
details. Estupendo!
One item high on the list for discussion was my wish to sleep close to
the summit and then climb the last stretch before sunrise so that I could
be on the very peak of El Mulhacen - on the Roof Of Spain - as the sun
rose above the horizon. I would look across the Mediterranean Sea to the
distant coast and watch daybreak unfold across Africa to The Straights
Of Gibraltar.
I flew from Manchester to Almeria [my all time favourite airport] where
my hire car was waiting for me. West along the Mediterranean coast, direction
Malaga, and then a right turn north to cut through Sierra La Contraviesa
to reach La Alpujarra.
When I arrived there I stayed first of all in the village of Yegen, at
Bar - Pension La Fuente. This was the place that writer Gerald Brenan
made his home in 1920 and later wrote a book called 'South from Granada'
that describes most beautifully the way of life then. One interesting
fact - he rented a large 8-roomed house on two floors for the sum of £6
per year!
Before I made my attempt to reach the heights
I moved my lodgings closer to Trevelez, from where we were to start our
journey.
The place I chose was Juviles, where hundreds of years ago the best quality
silk in Europe was produced. {There were at that time over 5,000 silk
looms in the area around Almeria} I stayed in a 200-year-old building,
Bar-Pension Fernandez, for £6 per night! {This price remains good
for 2003}. Gerald Brenan paid £6 per year but I was well pleased
with my deal, which gave me a double room with wash hand basin and small
balcony having views across miles of rolling hills. There were only six
rooms sharing two bathroom suites that are located close by the bedrooms.
As it was a quiet time of the year I usually had the place to myself and
would throw the huge bolt on the front door when I went up to my room.
José Antonio, the owner of the horses,
turned out to be exceptionally friendly, accommodating and competent.
His horses and their tack were in excellent condition. We soon agreed
what we were going to attempt. I phoned him each morning and night and
when the weather augured well he gave me the message - 'Operation Mulhacen
Is On'. So - up to Trevelez I went - in my little hire car.
We set out from Barrio Alto in Trevelez, which is probably Europe's highest
all year round inhabited village.
Barrio Alto can be reached by car. You must pass through Plaza de Las
Pulgas {Flea Square - there aren't any] in Barrio Medio and here the exit
is via a steep 10 foot long ramp with an extremely sharp left hand turning,
that is just possible to make. The locals reverse up the ramp and then
drive straight ahead up the steep concrete slope for about 150 metres
to Barrio Alto, which is the end of the road. Here there is a small square
offering great views and some space for car parking.
The horses leave from this point so there is no distance to lug packs.
There is a ramp for easy mounting. I took my own food, Serrano Ham, canned
Tuna, bread, fruit and a water bottle. There were places to top up the
water during the climb. I organised things for eating and drinking in
the saddle as we climbed - my small rucksack was very useful - and kept
my camera and binoculars to hand.
And so, in splendid weather I mounted my
trusty steed - 'Relampago' {Bolt of Lightning} and off into the high Sierra
Nevada we rode.
If you think about making this trip you should be in reasonable shape
and comfortable on a horse - there won't be any trotting but a great many
quite severe steps upwards and downwards for the sturdy animal, which
will be following the guide and knows the tracks. It follows that you
must be flexible enough to lean over the horse as needs be to assist its
labours. I weighed 200 pounds and as we got further up and the terrain
became steeper my poor companion had to stop and take several breathers
- I was just fine!
Route to El Mulhacen:
North West from Trevelez and then West climbing above Dog's Arse River
{Rio Culo de Perro} to wheel North to the flatland of Siete Lagunas that
lies at the foot of El Mulhacen. This is where we ate and rested one night.
We slept in the open under a rock overhang, as the refugios were pretty
grubby and damp, being constructed with loose stones. You will need your
own sleeping bag. There are absolutely no conveniences!
At Siete Lagunas, if you wish to be alone,
there is an area the size of several football pitches where one could
pitch a tent and also some rock overhangs that give shelter for sleeping.
It is unlikely that there will be any other people around. Don't worry
about beasties and animals, as you will be accompanied by four mongrel
dogs that happily bound around all over the place barking and chasing
in defence of their territory {I never saw anything!}. In the higher mountains
I saw only Mountain Goats eying us from far off.
You will be at 3,100 metres here [10,178 feet} with all the majesty of
El Mulhacen plainly visible just 382 metres above you. The journey to
this point will have needed about 5 hours and thirty minutes walking {by
your horse} though the terrain does require you to dismount for a couple
of short spells. Upwards, ever upward through magnificent country offering
panoramic views and sometimes the mountain goat sentinels on the skyline.
From the sleepover point to the summit the
first ground is more difficult, with a zigzag track of loose shale where
one must walk and you have the first rather tricky part of the ascent.
One can hold on to the horse's tail to be swiftly hauled up, as I did,
but they do move fast and I could not find the breath to keep up. This
is where Miss Prudence took over on my attempt and I resolved that on
another day I would be better fitted for the task.
I plan to be 20 pounds lighter for my next shot in 2003 and that should
be good enough to take me to the top! It is really very easy to get at
least as far as I did while experiencing a comfortable yet exhilarating
trip. So frustrating was my attempt but - so incredibly wonderful! However
- next time…
From Siete Lagunas you can watch the Sun rise above the Sierra de Gador
which will be lying below you and shielding the city of Almeria.
CONTACTS:
If anyone is interested in this region I would be happy to answer questions
and help with names, telephone numbers etcetera. Contact via Barrhead
Library or e-mail
Frank McKell, e-mail: rabarddos@yahoo.com
José Antonio Fernandez Lopez - Owner
and main guide.
RUTAS A CABALLO - VIRGEN DE LAS NIEVES
Calle Puente s/n Barrio Alto, 18417 Trevelez, La Alpujarra, Spain
Tel: 0034 958 858601 {9am or 9pm best times} Spanish required.
1] Guided tour on horseback to summit of El Mulhacen,
sleeping overnight in area of Siete Lagunas:
Group of 4 to maximum of 10, per person: Euros 90
One person only: 180
2] Hire of horses per hour, always with guide:
Group of 4 to maximum of 10, per person: Euros 10
One person only, always with guide: 20
Minimum hire period of two hours.
There is no insurance or accident cover included.
Jan 2003
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